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FTPF Factsheet: Planting Containerized Trees
The ideal time to plant trees is during the dormant season for bare root trees and during the early spring or fall for containerized trees, when weather conditions are cool, allowing trees to get their roots well established before the summer heat. Please keep in mind that well cared for trees may be planted in just about any month where conditions allow (i.e. the ground is not frozen), as long as the best-available establishment practices are carefully followed, so do not feel limited.
Preparing the tree planting site properly with good maintenance and care practices will ensure that the tree experiences reduced transplant shock and allow it to thrive. Please follow these steps carefully so that your tree will establish its roots quickly and develop vigorous growth. And remember, “It's better to plant a $100 tree in a $200 hole than to plant a $200 tree in a $100 hole.”
1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, at least two or three times the diameter of the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the tree roots on the newly establishing tree must push through the surrounding soil in order to get established. Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree (but not under it) allows the newly emerging roots room to expand into the loose soil to achieve proper establishment. Studies show that newly-planted trees benefit from holes up to 6 times as wide as the root ball, so dig as wide as you have the energy to. Roughen the sides of the planting hole if they appear glossy, especially in clay soils (this will give roots a better handle to branch out into adjacent soils). Remove large rocks and break up clods of soil.
2. Look for trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This area should be clearly visible when the tree is planted. If trunk flare is not visible, gently remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Uncover trunk flare prior to digging in order to accurately gauge how deep to make the planting hole. Inspect roots and the gently loosen the outside of the root ball. If the root zone is extremely root-bound with large, circling roots on the outside of the root mass, you may need to gently pull the circling roots apart, so that they are pointing outward when the tree is planted.
3. Plant at the right depth. Before putting the tree in the planting hole, make sure that the opening is at the right depth. The majority of the roots on a newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 to 18 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deep or it settles below grade, then water can collect at the trees base and cause it to decay or soil can accumulate around the root crown and eventually suffocate the tree. It is always better to plant the tree a little high (i.e. 1 inch above the base of the trunk flare) than to plant it below the original growing level. Erring on the high side will allow for the tree to be at the right depth after some settling. Make sure any graft union (i.e. the bulbous area near the base of the trunk) is at least 4 inches above ground level and is not covered with soil. To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift it with one hand underneath the root ball and never too high on the trunk.
4. Straighten the tree in the hole. View the tree from several directions before you begin backfilling to confirm the tree is straight. Position the tree so that the graft union is facing away from prevailing winds and/or sun. Once the planting hole is backfilled it will be difficult to reposition. Remember, this tree will be in the ground for decades, so if it is planted too deep in the whole or crooked, please take an extra 5 minutes to ensure that it is at the proper depth and angle. The tree will love you for it!
5. Resist the urge to amend or over-fertilize the backfill. Overuse of soil amendments can create a situation where roots are not encouraged to penetrate native soils once they reach the outer boundaries of the hole, essentially creating a situation akin to a pot in the ground where roots can circle. To avoid this
and ensure that the tree thrives, do not amend the soil, using only native soils to backfill. In the rare situation where amendments are absolutely necessary, amend by no more then 10% using an organic amendment. If soil tests reveal a need for pre-plant fertilizers, choose those that are organic, high in phosphorus and potassium, and low in nitrogen. This will encourage root development without burning them. Mix amendments thoroughly with backfill before filling hole.
6. Fill the hole, gently but firmly. Fill the hole about 1/3 full and gently settle the soil around the base of the root ball by watering as the hole is filled in. As the hole is filled in, make sure all air pockets are broken up to prevent roots from drying out. Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. Apply a tree wrap from the ground up towards the branches for the first year of establishment to prevent sunscald and repel borers. It is also important to create a berm to retain water for the first 2 years. The berm should be at least 2 times the diameter of the actual root ball, firmly packed and about 2 to 3 inches high to help hold water. After planting, soak the planting area well by filling in the water basin inside the berm at least two times, then keep damp, not wet. Do not over water!
7. Stake the tree, only if necessary. If the tree is well-grown with a sturdy trunk, staking for support is not necessary in most situations. Trees will establish more quickly and develop a stronger trunk and root system if they are not staked at the time of planting. Protective staking may be necessary in some situations where vandalism, windy conditions or other concerns may prevent the tree from developing a straight trunk. If staking is necessary for support, always use two stakes opposite each other with a wide, flexible tie material (narrow, or sharp-edged ties are more likely to cause friction wounds on the trunk). Be careful not to drive the stake through the root ball and remember, flexibility is essential as this will help increase the trunk diameter, so the do not stake the tree too tightly and allow the tree to have a natural degree of movement. Tie the tree to the stake using a figure-eight pattern at the lowest point possible that provides the necessary support. Remove stakes after the first year of growth.
8. Mulch around the base of the tree. Mulch is organic matter that is applied to the area around the base of the tree. Mulch acts as a covering that holds moisture in the soil, can reduce soil temperature extremes (both hot and cold), prevents weed germination and competition, and can improve soil quality as it decomposes by making soils more friable while slowly feeding microorganisms in the soil that release nutrients to your plants. Lastly, a thick mulch can provide improved aesthetic qualities. The best choices for mulch include coarse materials like shredded bark or wood chips, but other good choices include straw, leaf litter, and home compost. Apply much in 3 to 6 inch layers without touching the base of the tree, which can cause decay at the trees crown. Taper the mulch so that it is thicker as you move away from the tree’s crown.
9. Follow-up care. Allow the soil to dry slightly at the surface, keeping it moist but not soaked; over-watering may result in root and crown decay and may cause leaf yellowing. During the first season, water trees at least once a week, unless there is a heavy rain, and more frequently during hot, dry weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. During times of lower temperatures, trees require less frequent watering. An important rule of thumb to remember when watering: Water deeply but infrequently. This will allow moisture to reach parts of the soil where the roots will need to extend, whereas shallow watering does not promote vigorous growth. Always remember that it is important to get the water at least to the depth of the actual root ball.
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